dlete this thread im going back to can tune

[concoursd]

do you have a catch can installed? check your intake manifold for oil puddling. usually, spark knock that will not go away with minor adjustments points to oil burning because of the pcv system on the hemi's.

[MIKEP300C]

already checked the intake is clean no oil but even so why would she run good in 50 degree weather
last wee it dropped to 45 degrees and she ran hard as hell
so i take it she a timebomb waiting to happen huh?

ok its 55 out today heres a log from my cmr tune
look at the difference between hot days verus cold days
its night and day i did not do anything to the tune fuel is the same and so is spark

[MIKEP300C]

looks alot better huh?
i guess my car is supposed to only run good in cold lol

[rfoker]

any suggestions or live with it
thanks quick i dont under stand what ya wrote should i add fuel and retard it im lost

she run awesome in 40- 50 degree weather summer time it just dont have it

This is why Most people SHOULD NOT touch their tuner. It is for minor adjustments on the user end and is not meant for inexperienced users as you can screw up real quick.
If you have no idea....Go back to the stock canned tunes!

If that's not possible. PAY for a dyno tune so you can get your motor running healthy again. It will be cheaper than an engine replacement.

Where you have the most knock retard is where you take more timing out. i would add some fuel as well. Start at 3% and 3* for knock in the heavily KR areas.
Then, get a dyno tune done or email your tunes into Diablosprt and have one of the guy write you a tune based off what you currently have. You may have to do 2 or 3 logs and go back and forth with them until it's right, but I'm sure they have no problems with that. The cost is well worth it.
Dopn't be cheap and think you can fix the problem. Because it sounds like you don't know what to do!
Sorry if i come across hard, but most guys think they can play around with their tuners and have no idea what the consequences could come of it.

Proper tuning is done on the dyno WITH the use of a Wideband. You cannot get proper tuning without one.

[MIKEP300C]

any suggestions or live with it
thanks quick i dont under stand what ya wrote should i add fuel and retard it im lost

she run awesome in 40- 50 degree weather summer time it just dont have it

This is why Most people SHOULD NOT touch their tuner. It is for minor adjustments on the user end and is not meant for inexperienced users as you can screw up real quick.
If you have no idea....Go back to the stock canned tunes!

If that's not possible. PAY for a dyno tune so you can get your motor running healthy again. It will be cheaper than an engine replacement.

Where you have the most knock retard is where you take more timing out. i would add some fuel as well. Start at 3% and 3* for knock in the heavily KR areas.
Then, get a dyno tune done or email your tunes into Diablosprt and have one of the guy write you a tune based off what you currently have. You may have to do 2 or 3 logs and go back and forth with them until it's right, but I'm sure they have no problems with that. The cost is well worth it.
Dopn't be cheap and think you can fix the problem. Because it sounds like you don't know what to do!
Sorry if i come across hard, but most guys think they can play around with their tuners and have no idea what the consequences could come of it.

Proper tuning is done on the dyno WITH the use of a Wideband. You cannot get proper tuning without one.

i had the car dyno tuned but it runs better in winter and runs bad in summer im not a freak i didnt advance it myself thats a dyno tune in the winter so i found out that cold is good for the car to advance it only problem is that summer its to far advanced and in winter the air is dense and thats why she runs better in winter cause it was dynoed tuned in winter with alot of advance im not a moroon i just want it to run like it does in the winter so thats why i asked for help on the advance
sorry if i sounded mean but im not gonna use the tune its to messed up

[Quick]

Sounds like a good discussion point though.

let's just talk about WOT.
Colder air is denser.
Fuel at WOT is fixed.

So let's say you tune in the cold. Denser air, more O2 per volume, so you'd need X amount of fuel to get 12.0:1 afr.
Now it get hot out, air is less dense, less O2 per volume, but you're still injecting X amount of fuel...

Seems to me that you'd be running rich right? So what else might account for the problem? Chamber temps? and there are all those details about what the PCM compensates for/with with those dozen or so sensor readings like IAT, ECT, etc, etc. It's possible you may be jumping to the wrong conclusion or over simplifying the problem/cause.

[HerDaytona]

In the Summer the outside temps go up..............intake air temps "Skyrocket"..............engine coolant temps are up.........and summer fuel is different. If you do not do something about your intake temps then your car will run pretty crap from the get go. Winter time timing will not get pulled due to the first 3 items I mentioned above.

[Quick]

Ok... less power due to less charge, but a richer charge. That's going to cause knock?

[SeaBass67]

111 in a 45???? They got WiFi in the lockup now??

[MIKEP300C]

i was just blasting her down when the cop was sitting along the frontage road lol oh well dam the man damn the man
i live in chicago they got it all here lol go figure only 4 cops patrol my area and 1 happens to be sitting on the frontage road along the exspress way