Guess thats one way to save money

[Mike_Levy]

Picked up a Harmonic balancer from ATI. Looking for the best price, I ordered it from Summit Racing, who was $180 less then Lingenfelter, plus I had a $20 coupon.

Box comes today, and inside, 3 pieces and a bag of bolts. The damn balancer isn't assembled!!! Give me a freaking break! Would it really cost $180 in labor to assemble the damn thing?

What a load of crap!



I can't be the only one who thinks this is ridiculous, can I?

[mikel]

Damn, wish I knew you were shopping!
We had that V track rental last Friday, and one of my buddies customers had 2 lingenfelter crank pulleys for sale for whatever reason. If you still need any parts, lemme know, I'll see what they have lying around

[rlkimmel]

If you think that one is rediculus, get a price from a dealer to change a set of "captive" front rotors. The current estimate is five and a half hours labor. I swapped my stock ones for a set of slotted and cross drilled ones myself. It took me about five hours for both because I was able to skip a step. Just think of all the "fun" you would be deprived of if that dampener would have come already assembled by a machine in about a minute or two. The days of the "back yard mechanic" are numbered. The manufacturer probably saved a few bucks by selling you a bag of parts instead of a fully assembled unit. If I would list all of the ways I've run into, that we are getting hosed, the message would be longer than one of those Russian cans of spam this sight is getting bombed with.

[Mike_Levy]

Damn, wish I knew you were shopping!
We had that V track rental last Friday, and one of my buddies customers had 2 lingenfelter crank pulleys for sale for whatever reason. If you still need any parts, lemme know, I'll see what they have lying around

Thanks, but I doubt I could have gotten a better deal then I got from Summit. I ended up paying just $450 for it, and LPE gets $650 for the same unit, assembled I assume.

All I'm really looking for right now is a set of ID850's. With the 9.55 pulley at the bottom, and 2.38 at the top, she's gonna make close to 20# of boost, and I know I'm gonna max the stockers out. Thats why we're just putting on the lower next week and holding off on the upper until I get injectors.

Oh, and headers, but I'm on Pacesetters list for beta testing. They were supposed to be ready by the end of the month..... wonder why they haven't gotten back to me yet..... month ends tomorrow.

[mikel]

Thats a lot of boost man, you're going to be battling IAT issues like crazy.
These things are bad enough with the IATs at stock boost levels.
One of the biggest improvements we made on Marsads car was adding the high flow intercooler pump, IMO the heat exchanger alone does NOTHING to help IATs, as it seems the pump is the limiting factor

[Mike_Levy]

I have a big ass 17.2GPM Johnson pump (stock is 9GPM), but I gotta figure out how to get the hose size to fit. The pump is 3/4" in and out, the lines and heat exchanger are -10aN (5/8"). Either gonna have to file down the pump, or drill out the hose ends.

I'm not sure how the pump can be limiting that much. Even the stock one almost doubles the flow of the Bosch pump AMG and Ford use (5.5GPM).

[mikel]

Well, on the 3 V's that I logged before and after a heat exchanger upgrade, I never saw a significant difference in IATs.
Marsads car seems to be about 10* cooler at WOT than the other local V's we have tuned...

[Mike_Levy]

I suspect that those were probably the cheap exchangers, like the radiators Hennessey, Katech, and Wait4Me are selling. I don't understand why anybody would run those (less $$$). They're no thicker then stock, and not much bigger, so how do people expect them to reduce heat?

I went with the D3. Its 3 times as thick as stock, twice as wide. D3 runs this on their 1,000hp race cars, so I have little doubt that it'll keep my "underpowered" V cool. I rarely get into boost, and when I do its not for very long, so theres not much time for it to build heat.

[Mike_Levy]

Finished putting the damn thing together. Gotta go to the store and see if I can find "T-40 Plus" and "T-45 Plus" bits tomorrow so I can torque the bolts down. I used Allen keys to put them in.