timing parameter

[kevoscamaro]

As long as I keep my ltft at 0 and no knock how many degrees can I go w/o denoting at wot ? 5.3l

[mikel]

there is no answer to that question without logging and seeing what it will take.

[kevoscamaro]

So just keep adding a degree till knock? Cant u add to much w/o knock?

[kevoscamaro]

cw 318-463

[kevoscamaro]

http://youtu.be/G44XBanAgOk

[kevoscamaro]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dcw5TPuI ... detailpage

[kevoscamaro]

Any1 have a general rule of thumb??? Like anywhere from 24-29degrees at wot.

[Egoresb]

My general rule of thumb... Idk exactly what it is your tuning but on my race car when I make changes and have to retime it... I normally go as far as I can until I see knock then go back 2 degrees. I'm running c16 fuel with 35 psi boost and running 23 degrees timing if i changed to e85 i run 21 degrees.But keep in mind.... Every engine is different and what fuel you run also plays a part as to what is "SAFE" also keep in mind this is a RACE car not a daily grocery go getter.

If you want every ounce you can out that motor and be safe I suggest www.diablewtune.com or look around for a custom dyno tuner in your area. My daily driver truck was tuned by lew and its awesome. It's running 26 degrees at wot but also my engine and yours are different. May take less or more.

[kevoscamaro]

Thanx for reply. Im just tryn to learn little by little w/o doing any damage. 35Psi wow.

[Egoresb]

Lol yea that's low boost :p been having ignition system problems when i go to 42. waiting on my new box and coils to come in. but anyhow timing isn't something most people fool with unless they know what their doing. You can gain serious hp just from timing but if you push it you'll cause pre detonation (knock) which WILL blow your motor if your not careful. On my racecar I go till it knocks and back 2 degrees just to be safe some people leave it on the border and do fine and some blow on the first pass. All depends on the engine and how well it's built. I'm not sure exactly what a daily driver SAFE would be.

[kevoscamaro]

My pred to old for lew to toon. Doesnt even log. But has so many more parameters I can adjust compared to the new 1s. Mainly my rear o2s. So I log with an alternative device and toon with pred. I could go with the crowd and buy new but I dont see why when I need to learn neways

[Egoresb]

Ah I see. Well if you have an automatic the new intune or trinity also has transmission support for most vehicles. Also lew has package deals. Plus you won't blow your car up or have to fool with anything besides drive and log. And when it's all done... Well lets just say it'll be hard to keep your foot out of it :p

Plus I believe there's a predator trade in deal that's goin on to save a little extra cash.... Just an idea.

[kevoscamaro]

All those are valid good points. I just dont like payn more $$$ every time I put another mod on to get retoond. I figured I already saved myself round $400 with a little help from a diff board. I guess most of all I dont like any1 touchn my truck besides me. If I fuk it up so b it but if sum1 else fuks it up then theres bunch o drama

[Egoresb]

Yea good point. See I know fairly well how to tune my racecar using hondata and I'm pretty sure I could figure out the cmr tuning software but I can't dish out the money if they would even sell it to me. All your doing with the predator is changing the curves of fueling and timing on certain bands. Mr lew can actually pinpoint the exact rpm to make the changes and he's changing the maf table to correct fueling instead of overworking the injectors duty cycle. And he can play with more options than what your doing. Either way will close the gap in your tuning but to get it really dialed in you'd have to get it custom tuned. The way your doing it can get you close but there's still power to be made.

[kevoscamaro]

Thats wat I fingerd. I can get it pretty close. I've had a dyno toon dun with the pred b4 but then I added mods. With dyno data and my data are pretty close. Pretty happy with where it is for a daily driver.