Catch Can

[Quick]

1) I wonder how much oil in the intake is actually caused by installing goof ass, 0hp adding CAI, which reroute(misroute?) the factory PCV system?

Most maintain it. That would be the "intake" side of the pcv system. The hemi's have the tube right by the oil filler so if you spill or it burps you get oil into the intake. Probably where that oil came from on the TB that guy found in the picture. For some reason the Jeeps seem to see this a bit more than the LXs.

A lot of guys simply put a little filter directly on the tube instead of drawing it from the CAI like stock.

2) At what rate does the oil to accumulate?

For the 6.1L, the oil will collect in a catch can pretty consistently at the rate of 20 ml per 1000 miles. Doesn't seem to matter how you drive it.

3)Here's an obvious one: If the Oil is STILL in the intake, its NOT getting into the cylinder, right?

No. some collects and some gets burned. People have found residue throughout the intake and runners. Whether it collects to a point and then it all goes into the cylinder or whether it's a ratio all the time of collecting and burning I don't know. From those pics it was all over the walls too. Obviously it's still atomized or vaporized in order to get up the hose from the PCV valve and into the intake. Some will condense and precipitate out. Some will do that in the main chamber and some in the runners and some will get burned while still atomized/vaporized. The oil precipitatiing out in the runners will get sucked in as liquid/droplets. This is probably the worst part of it.
The catch can (properly designed) will remove the heavier/larger droplets and also give the atomized/vaporized oil a good chance to condense on the stainless steel wool "filter". As above, you can catch about 20 ml or more per 1000 miles.
Surely some will pass but it should be greatly improved.

4) If a single drop of oil is tabboo, Why vent the crank case into the intake at all? A $400 can is not 100% effective anyway. Just disconnect the PCV system entirely from the intake and vent the crankcase properly.

ewww, that's just messy. you'd have to run the breather hose all the way to the rear and then it'd probably still get all over the tail gate.

I really don't know how much they changed for PCV systems and how much if anything internal *depends* on it being PCV.

[broadfca]

Trying to make them understand the way things are now in the new millenium is pointless.

Mike,
I seriously doubt you're competant enough to be so condesending.

Have you ever tuned anything with EFI,,ever?
I'm not talking this sissy girl Predator bs(No offense DS). I'm talking full on, powertrain control, when you have to fab your own crank sensors, fuel systems, and build your fuel and ignition maps from scratch. When you have to tune every thing! Coolent temp compensation, Acelleration compesation, Air temp, O2 transport delay, coil dwells(coil on plug), Injection angles, ect

yeah,,,,,, didn't think so. Do you even know what half those things even are?

I've been tuning full stand alone EFIs for over 10 years and have at least some experience with most major aftermarkets(FAST, Accell DFI, Holley, MOTEC, HALTECH, AEM) and a few OEM flashers (SCT, DSP, CMR just with the NGC) I've tuned everything from 500hp V8 to a 600cc 15000rpm Formula car(f-sae). Is that "new millenium" enough for you?

When you stop needing to pay others to tune your ride for you and stop regurgitating every half-baked "mod list" you see on the internet, then you might be half the way to where I am now.

Hell, I'm half-thinking about applying for DS position as "Advanced Calibration/Tuning Specialist",, but I doubt the wife would move to FL,,besides I get paid pretty well now as a Mechancal Design Engineer.
____________________________________________________________
Sorry for the rant, Back OT: As an engineer I'm skeptical about everything especially "advice" from wannabes.

1) I wonder how much oil in the intake is actually caused by installing goof ass, 0hp adding CAI, which reroute(misroute?) the factory PCV system?

2) At what rate does the oil to accumulate?
Are the sensational pics 30k miles worth of oil? Which would mean a miniscule amount is actually collecting in the plenum and MUCH less is getting to the cylinder(see #3)

3)Here's an obvious one: If the Oil is STILL in the intake, its NOT getting into the cylinder, right?

Old school: Ever heard of fuel puddling? (I doubt it) Its when the unevaporated fuel falls out of the air stream ans "puddels in the intake. Usually from an abrupt change in direction of the air stream. One of the major benefits from Port fuel injection is the greater latitude given to intake manifold designers because since the manifold only moved air, they no longer had to worry about fuel puddeling. The Oil is probably doing the same thing ESPECIALLY at WOT. At WOT the air flow velocity is too high to keep any oil droplets, which are several magnitudes more dense than the air, suspended in the air stream all the way to the Valve.

4) If a single drop of oil is tabboo, Why vent the crank case into the intake at all? A $400 can is not 100% effective anyway. Just disconnect the PCV system entirely from the intake and vent the crankcase properly.

For those of us that really don't have a clue what the truth is.....We are waiting with baited breath for the conclusion of this topic!

[duster360]

For those of us that really don't have a clue what the truth is.....We are waiting with baited breath for the conclusion of this topic!

I'm just offering an alternative point of view instead of being a lemming, blinding throwing money at "mods" without a thought to why or worse without vetting the source.

I wouldn't be surprised if some chuckle head posted that you MUST buy $500 valve cover bolts and gullible schmucks will fall for it hook line and sinker.

CAIs are a perfect example. most are $300-$500 and don't offer a single HP on 90% of the cars they're installed on, yet lemmings line up to purchase them. its ridiculous.

[brandy16]

Iam with you on this duster 360. May be nice to have but not mandatory to run a tune on the DSP

[Quick]

Sure it's not mandatory to run a tune maybe. I guess it depends on what you mean by that. It seems to be worth a couple of degrees of timing. If you want to significantly reduce the knock that comes from it I'd think you're giving up some measurable performance because it's not consistent -- it happens sporadically, severity varies and what rpm it happens at varies. You can't pin point it and tune it out at some particular spot. Or are you saying you don't think it contributes to that or performance loss when tuning to squeeze a bit more out of these engines? $100 for some completely safe hp is a pretty good deal compared to the average cost added hp.

[MrBenchMark]

For those of us that really don't have a clue what the truth is.....We are waiting with baited breath for the conclusion of this topic!

LOL!

[Mike_Levy]

I'm just offering an alternative point of view instead of being a lemming, blinding throwing money at "mods" without a thought to why or worse without vetting the source.

And what school did you get your mechanics degree from?

I never claimed to know much about tuning, but the mechanical stuff, that I know as well as, or better then, just about anybody here.

[MrBenchMark]

I'm just offering an alternative point of view instead of being a lemming, blinding throwing money at "mods" without a thought to why or worse without vetting the source.

And what school did you get your mechanics degree from?

I never claimed to know much about tuning, but the mechanical stuff, that I know as well as, or better then, just about anybody here.

[duster360]

I'm just offering an alternative point of view instead of being a lemming, blinding throwing money at "mods" without a thought to why or worse without vetting the source.

And what school did you get your mechanics degree from?

Who needs a stinkin degree in be a "Mechanic" ? You just need to pass the ASE tests with a measly 60%(btw a 'F' in the real world)

I'm ASE certified in Parts and Engine Performance,,,passed both tests without cracking a book or even bothering to study. (i received 78% & 81% respectively) Engine Performance is suppose to be one of the "harder tests",,so they say. I could have easily taken the rest of the tests to become a Master Tech but it came down to economics. Each test was +$80 and my current job didn't want to pay for them, so I said screw it. Who needs be a Master Tech with a BS in Engineering?

Both my cetifications just expired last month but I have no desire to retake the tests.