Timing adjustments
Getting your vehicle as lean as possible without torching a piston has been the general rule for making maximum power. Unless you are on a dyno or at the dragstrip, playing with your timing is going to be a guessing game. If you want maximum low end torque, put an adjustable timing chain in your motor and degree your cam for the low end torque you want it to make.(retard torque, advance HP) A little tougher to do, but better then the path you are taking right now. 
1967 C10 Prostreet, 502 and a Glide,
2007 KAW ZX-14, too fast for you. 8.9 @ 153mph
2007 Yukon Denali
2007 KAW ZX-14, too fast for you. 8.9 @ 153mph
2007 Yukon Denali
what post?
06MonteSS / DiabLew Tune

2014 Camaro SS - 2SS, RS pkg., short-throw shifter, NPP perf. exhaust, BMR strut-tower brace, Cold Air Inductions cold air intake
www.diablewtune.com -- www.diablocustomtune.com -- www.diablocustomtunegm.com -- www.diablocustomtuning.net

2014 Camaro SS - 2SS, RS pkg., short-throw shifter, NPP perf. exhaust, BMR strut-tower brace, Cold Air Inductions cold air intake
www.diablewtune.com -- www.diablocustomtune.com -- www.diablocustomtunegm.com -- www.diablocustomtuning.net
This one.BoostFrenzy wrote:regarding timing, there's only one "right" curve and while the predator's adjustments seem to be offsets in ranges rather than absolute numbers you can dial in per rpm, this is how i'd approach it...
first you need to understand MBT (maximum brake torque), often referred to as maximum best timing, this is the "right" amount of timing that will produce the most power... and adding in more isn't going to make any more power, you'll just get closer to detonation and have no ceiling for changing atmospheric conditions / fuel quality
so if it's "off the line" power you want, i'd try adding in a little timing in the lower 2 ranges and see how it reflects your 60' times after SEVERAL passes, while also logging KR, beyond that, if you're trying to tune the entire timing curve there's always been two schools of thought here... richer afr's with more timing or leaner with less timing, not sure which makes the power in our cars though because I've never tuned one (yet)
It's really a guessing game without having a dyno to see where MBT is at each rpm, but i'd have to believe adding in a degree or two can't hurt
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CANUCKPREDATOR
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These are the two big things to take out of this post. The ONE right curve is for your vehicle. What works in mine, may not work in yours, there is such a fine line on these computer controlled vehicles. The other thing is a dyno is REALLY needed to see what YOUR vehicle needs and how it responds to the changes. We can give you tons of advice but with out seeing the actual results on a dyno none of this advice means anything.rickssz wrote:This one.BoostFrenzy wrote:regarding timing, there's only one "right" curve
It's really a guessing game without having a dyno to see where MBT is at each rpm
Basically, play with timing, if you want. Get to a dyno to REALLY make good changes.
I bought the predator so I wouldnt have to pay for a dyno tune. I dont have a good dyno within a couple a few hundred miles and even so wouldnt pay dyno time everytime I changed or adjusted something. I will eventually get some dyno numbers to use as a baseline when I am satisfied with my adjustments or get a custom tune from DS.