LS1/LS2/LS3/LS4/LS7 etc. - LOGGING, ADJUSTING INJECTOR SLOPE

[DaveAN55]

No No, I don't mean use dslogredux to do WOT tuning. I mean actually driving the car and putting the pedal to the floor without having it dialed in yet. Will I hurt the engine if I go drive it wide open before I can adjust for warmer temps? I saw all the popups when I clicked on the WOT tabs and it clearly said don't do WOT tuning until the LTFT's are dialed in. If I cant go out and put my foot down until the temps warm up, I think I'm going to cry. (not really, but I'll think about crying)

WOW, your car is only 3600lbs?!? That's awesome. Sounds like it has all the whistles and bells. I like black on black too. Thats what I chose for my G8.

I looked into a CTS this year but I cant live with a V6 that only puts out ~300 HP and a CTS-V is over 60K. That just wont do right now for the wife and I. I think I'm a bit obsessed with my G8 anyway so I plan on keeping that for a good long while. GM doesnt offer anything of that caliber anymore and I still have a family to haul around so the camaro is not very practical right now either. I did drive a 2SS camaro with a 6.2 L and that was a blast, I just cant get my kids in and out very easily!

Oh and you are correct about he rubber. I do need new tires but thats going to run me at least a grand. I'll put in an order for those when it starts to warm up and I'm ready to dial in the WOT. Then again, maybe I should do the WOT's on old rubber and THEN put new tires on it!

[xSpiraledx]

Well when you think about it, your slope has been changed and dialed to be closer if not dead on to appropriate LTFT's compared to the original canned tune. So if anything running around WOT is less harmful than when you only had the diablotune going because your fueling is in better shape. High rpm's wear on non-rotary engines just because of physics so it's never completely harmless to WOT. While you could get lucky and make it to 150k mi. without a single problem, I've had plenty of friends snap timing belts, crack blocks, and blow piston arms/rings stomping and racing around the country. Kinda like smokin or drinkin then I guess, do it in moderation but if you never do you wont feel alive lol. If you have a warranty or some backup cash for an unexpected repair why the hell not, you bought a 6.0 for a reason although tuning and mods will prob. void a warranty so I'd read the fine print on that if applicable lol.
Yea CTS-V's are out of reach, heh, but you can pick up the '04-'07 CTS Spec-v's, they have 400hp/395lb.ft. 5.7/6.0's and are more affordable. G8 is a great ride though and I'll probably trade up to one once I pay my car off in a yr. or 2.
In my opinion, I like Hankook's Ventus for all season rubber. I run them and my friends have them, one on a Jeep Commander and the other on a freakin quick Subaru. Sidewalls are a little soft but I love the grip and almost no noise. My 255's were $200ea. and my 225's were $160ea. and they've held up great on all vehicles.

[DaveAN55]

I'm still under warranty so if I have to take it in I'll have to flash the stock tune back in. It's an 08 with 36K on the odometer and I drive it like I stole it!

I agree with your logic on being dialed in a lot closer today than I was with the stock tune. My LTFTs were way lean when I started so I should in theory be "safer" at WOT than before. Obviously there is always risk with taking any engine to the max, but hey, like you said, I didn't by a 6.0L to putt around the neighborhood.

Tires are like buying a washer and dryer, you just plain have to have 'em. IMO You put them on, burn them up and start all over again. All I hear is cha ching.

[xSpiraledx]

Heya again,
Ok so it was a freak 78-82F past 2 days and I managed to get slope dialed in beautifully with a final adjustment to -8%, and did my WOT today (really happy there were no Troopers around ). It was a good couple of logs, but each didn't provide enough data for low rpm range which kinda makes sense because you're flooring it. Mid ranges were dead on with a hearty 12.6904 AFR and high range recommended -2% due to a 12.3912 AFR. So I'm pretty damn close. I did these logs in tapshift running to 5600rpm each gear like I was racing. Doing it in normal A/T drive might give me more WOT points in lower rpm but my first question is should I bother because I'm dead on and really close in my other rpm ranges?

Second question... Is there a guide or spec sheet for timing parameters for KR? I know nothing about it. I have a TKSR avg. of 4.483 degrees with a max of 7.031. Is that good, bad, avg., and when I make the -2 adjustment to WOT will that help resolve it? In the log it starts in @ 2* around 4700rpm in 1st gear, climbs to 4* around 5500rpm. When I change to 2nd it drops me to 4100rpm, the TKR drops to 3* then JUMPs to 7* as I rev back up past 4300+rpm. It then steadily decreases down to 4* over the span of high 2nd gear through 4th. I've used 93 Sunoco every tank for the last 6 months. Any help with that would be appreciated, I know you guys are busy. Thanks in advance

[06MonteSS]

can't really go by the average and max that dslogredux shows you.. . you're better off opening the csv log file in Excel and go through it manually, like I do

then you can see where the KR is actually occuring... some during a shift is normal... if you get it at the beginning when you romp on it, that's normal, because you're at looow rpms and then you floor it and go to full engine load, so kr is inevitable... as your rpms pick up you should notice it disappear...

also, anything 2.xxx or less is nothing to worry about anywhere... plus, look at the timestamps - most of the time it's a blip of kr that only lasts for hundredths of a second.

also, if the kr value start out immediately at a higher number, then goes down to 0 quickly, its most likely false knock... real/true knock usually starts off low and increases as rpms/load do...

[gd651bb]

Lew
Can we use most of this info with the Intune? Great info. Too bad my intune is a paperweight right now.
Do we have to use the dslogredux? I know most of this is for the predator. I am a noob and just asking

[06MonteSS]

yes you can use this info for the intune as well....

but for the intune, you do not have to use the dataviewer program to get the data log off the tool and save it to your pc... you simply go to the Logs folder on the intune drive, and copy it from there and paste it to your PC...

but, then you HAVE to use the dataviewer to open the log file and Export it as CSV file if you want to run it through dslogredux...

[sport2008]

would I use the same process on the intune tuner that I do on the predator 2012 camaro

[ox1574]

I recently purchased an inTune and I am working on my 2010 Silverado 5.3L. First thing I did was customized the stock tune to put in the correct tire size and turn off DoD. I drove around 30+ miles and then logged cruising right around 1800rpms (which was around 80-81mph). I exported that out and used dslogredux and it is showing I am running 12.32+ on bank 1 and 11.38+ on bank 2. Does this seem extremely high to anyone? Only thing I have done is install the K&N CAI. Do you think the ECM hasn't learned long enough for DoD change? The CAI has been installed for a 1000 or so miles.

Thanks

[06MonteSS]

yes sport2008...

and yes ox1574... check that K&N intake, they're known for loosening up after a while.. make sure all clamps/bolts are TIGHT so there are no air leaks anywhere... your ltft's shouldn't be that high usually with just that mod... and also, every time you flash a tune to the ecm, the learned items like idle, airflow, fuel trims, emissions tests, etc all get reset and have to be relearned by the ecm... so after you flash a tune to the vehicle, you'll need to just drive it how you normally do for a few days - you need to put on at least about 100 miles... it will take about 100 miles for the fuel trims and such to get relearned by the ecm and settle in... and then you can do a new log...

[ox1574]

yes sport2008...

and yes ox1574... check that K&N intake, they're known for loosening up after a while.. make sure all clamps/bolts are TIGHT so there are no air leaks anywhere... your ltft's shouldn't be that high usually with just that mod... and also, every time you flash a tune to the ecm, the learned items like idle, airflow, fuel trims, emissions tests, etc all get reset and have to be relearned by the ecm... so after you flash a tune to the vehicle, you'll need to just drive it how you normally do for a few days - you need to put on at least about 100 miles... it will take about 100 miles for the fuel trims and such to get relearned by the ecm and settle in... and then you can do a new log...

Logged again today after many miles since the last post. Looks like I am still running LTFT Bank 1 9.23505% and LTFT Bank 2 @ 8.80823...suggests I decrease the slope by 10%. Connections with the CAI seem good. Just a reminder that I am running the stock tune modified with DOD off and tire size adjustment only. Does this still sound crazy off?

Thanks

[06MonteSS]

if everything checks out, then no - your data is probably correct.. BUT, I would get a custom tune done so that the MAF sensor table can be adjusted instead of the injector slope... that's a big adjustment to make to the injectors, on top of what you've already changed them to.... gonna make your vehicle sluggish... I would only go another -7% on slope and leave it until you're ready to get a custom tune done for it...

[ox1574]

I haven't changed anything yet with the slope. I guess since I did more driving between logs that the ecm learned better.

[ox1574]

So should I go ahead and decrease the slope by 10% if I haven't made any changes yet, or should I try one of the canned tunes first?

[06MonteSS]

so you don't have one of the tunes installed yet even??? yeah man, I would install one of the tunes... then you need to just drive the vehicle however you normally do, for a few days until you get at least about 100 miles put on it - so that the fuel trims and such can get relearned by the ecm and settle in... then do a new steady driving log and see how things look...