Diablosport Forums

Follow this link for further explaination of the adjustable parameters in your GM Predator.

http://www.diablosport.com/index.php?mo ... lay&pid=98


Thanks

Hi Mikel,

I want to buy a diablosport flash programmer for Hummer h2 year 2003, which model I can order?

Michele from Italy

for a 2003 Hummer H2, you need to get Predator model U7195...

http://diablosport.com/index.php?module ... lay&pid=66

hey monteSS... i have a ford pinto GT superperformance model.

which predator can i use?

just use the same one that's for a Mustang GT... same car, different body panels...

here's some info I have...

Hi there, just got back from driving my 2006 Cadillac Escalade trying to figure out this whole "knock retard" thing... I've read the "adjustable parameters explained" posted by Mike, and it's helped to a degree, but my problem is that i guess i don't 100% know what wide open throttle really means, to me, it speaks for itself, but the reason i question this is Mike states that "You basically always want knock retard to read zero under wide open throttle conditions, it is normal for it to show KR when stomping on the throttle and also during the shift"... To me, this statement contradicts itself, so is WOT not what it "SOUNDS LIKE"??? I ran my rig up and down a hill several times and on the freeway at 65, and the only time it shows KR is when i put my foot in it or it shifts, but not when cruising, HOWEVER, i have manually adjusted the KR to your specs in what you wrote, and i started at a 5% adjustment from 2-4 and 4-7, and am now all the way up to 10% on both RPM ranges... I'm running the 87 tune for cheaper gas, and when i take it up to performance tune, it pings like "CRAZY"!!! Doesn't seem to ping much though on 87 tune, whether i leave KR values alone, or change them like i have... Should i put them back where they were??? Please help explain all of this to me better so i keep my rig running like it should, thanks, Dustin... P.S. '06 Escalade w/ HO 6.0, Predator U7192 #151417, Version 2.04, Throttle-body spacer, full intake kit, and flowmaster muffler, that's it... Thanks Again...

Hello???

As I understand it, it is called Tip In. The moment you go WOT the Tip In happens and shows a bit of KR. Mine is less than 1% and happens for less than a second.

What does your log show?

Well, all i have is the data viewer, no logger, is this the same thing or not, i have the older 2.04 version...

aaaah, so you can only see it on the predator screen... that's hard to tell... cuz it MAY not register/show on the screen exactly when it's happening....

that's been my experience with mine anyway...

but, I can save logs and export them to an excel file and look at all the data that way, so I can tell for sure...

It does show up on the screen, i watch the "knock retard", and it doesn't move at all while driving normal, only until i mash the throttle or when it shifts, does it ever do anything... So what's what, i have it programmed in the 87 octane tune right now, and just set my knock retard -5 in both rpm ranges, and it seems to be doing ok... However, what does this really mean, will it cause any adverse effects/harm, etc...??? All i want is for the "ticking" to go away completely, is "MUCH" worse in performance tune... Also, i do run "SHELL" gasoline, in which i've heard everyone's reactions to before(NOT GOOD), but do you really think that this could be a major contributor to my problem???

D'OH!! SSSHHHEEELLLLLLL!!!!!!

yes, that is a problem... have had others that, when they switched from Shell, their "ticking" went away...

also, from my own personal experience, I had a LOT of KR when I used shell gas when I first bought the car... but after I bought a predator and noticed it, I talked to the diablosport guys and they recommended using mobil, exxon, sunoco, amoco or BP, I switched to Mobil 93 octane, and after a tank or so, the KR was virtually gone...

run that crap outta there... fill up with a tank of good gas, and when you're down to about a 1/4 tank, check it again... I betcha it'll be gone, or at least, less...

then fill up with good gas again, then after 1/2 tank of that, check it again... will be better...

Okay, okay, okay. I've read this LTFT thing over and over and I don't understand why it says that if the LTFT is positive the PCM is adding fuel. So negate the LTFT to the corresponding number in order to fool the PCM to think it now has smaller injectors to work with in which it nows adds more fuel. Aren't we trying to get rid of fuel in the first place? Is the amount of fuel now being injected actually less because the computer thinks the injector is smaller? But it's not and by injecting more fuel with the so called "smaller injectors" is more fuel than we started with?

Don't get wrapped up in the rich/lean, big injector/small injector techy shit. Sounds like you and I are alot alike. Just get your LTFTs in the 0 to -2 range. So if you are currently running +4 LTFTs, make a -5 adjustment, drive 30-50 miles and check your LTFTs again to make sure they are in the 0 to -2 range.

I feel that this techy side of the Predator is great, but I really don't understand it. I can however do math and that's all the LTFT adjustments are to me.

Hope that helps simplify things.