Plug question...and rich WOT

[Krazyrdr83]

Well I pulled the champion RE10PMC5 (supposed to be a 2 step colder plug, but platinum tip). Had them in the car for 6k miles, many pulls, a few 1/4 passes, helped out with knock after installed. Everyone said to pull them because the tip will get too hot and fall off....Well I put RE14MCC4's back in (570), did a few pulls to log and see where I stand at with knock and etc.

Seems like the car has a slight hesitation at WOT in beginning of 3rd gear. A/F jump to 10.0 then climp up to 11.5-11.6 a few seconds after and then the car begins to really move out, till then it feels pretty sluggish.

Here is my log after installing the RE14MCC4 (570). Doesn't seem like the clutch is slipping...take a look.

Deposit Files

(the buildup around the threads and base is anti-cease)

[rfoker]

Those plugs look pretty good other than the Extreme overboard application of anti-sieze. Holy crap batman. You should only need to cover like 2-3threads on just one side. Like a tiny amount goes along way.

Possibility that you have anti-sieze melting and getting on the electrodes???? You should put just a SMALL dab about 3-4 threads away from the electrode end so to keep that stuff away from the tip. The rest will work it's way up the plug as you tighten it up.

Platinum tipped=crap for performance applications. If you went to Copper plug and are having sluggish starts on the low end, I would jump up a heat range. so, that would be 1 heat range colder than stock OR try opening up the gap a little and see if that helps out.


What is your current set-up? Supercharged? N20???? If neither, then going colder will only hurt you.

[Krazyrdr83]

Neon SRT-4, stock turbo, boost spiking to 20, then fading off to 16 by redline. stock pcm, 2.5" dump with high-flow cat. stock fuel system. I think all that anti-seize is just built up from all the other plugs, I only put a dab on really lol. I was getting a lot of knock before with the stock plugs gapped at .40. tried the platinum tip 2 step colder. it worked pretty good. but then when i tried getting some info, and mentioned my plugs, people were like don't use those....so I went back to coppers. I may have them gapped a bit small, I'll regap and see what happens.

[motorhead426]

I've heard that its not good to put any anti-seize on spark plugs because the plug uses the threads-to-block as a grounding point for the energy. If you've got anti-seize on the threads your potentially interfering with the plugs ability to spark. Ever have a bad ground cable and tried to start the car? It's kinda the same thing. I'd clean the threads up in the cylinder head and plugs and try again. The plugs don't look too bad. There's a term for their appearance. It's called "high speed glazing" which would be normal for drag strips runs. I hope some of this was helpful. Good luck!

[rfoker]

I would go with coppers or Iridiums that are one step colder and gapped near factory or slightly under. if you are a stage 1 or 2, there's no reason to have a 2-step colder plug. You are only taking away power. stage 3+ uses 2-steps colder. I'd say for every 8-10psi, you go down 1 step.
If you have that much extra anti-sieze in your heads, then there's no need to add more to the plugs. Just put them in dry the next few times.

Gap, run as big as you can w/out blow-out is really what your looking for. Start big and go backwards. Only closing the gap by .002" each time..ex...040" has blow-out so you would then try .038"...etc